Googling it brings up tons of results so its not a one off thing…Īs far as the brown sludge being caused by something else, thats definitely not the case here. There was no sludge before, he drained in and put in fresh coolant/distilled water at a 25/75 mix plus water wetter, did a track day, got the sludge, drained and flushed a couple times to get all the sludge out, and went back to a 30/70 mix with no water wetter and the sludge never came back. This is with and without water wetter, so its not something else in the engine that was caused by hitting those temps This happened when the car was about a year old had under 5k miles on it, so its not an old car thing.Ĭould high temps cause this? the car did get to the low 240’s water temp on the track before backing off. Water Wetter does have a rep for sludging. If you call Redline they will acknowledge same. They have a newer variant they can recommend that is actually for diesel use. I happen to prefer Rislone’s Hyper-Cool, which is really Hyper-lube’s product, but now I can buy it at Walmart. The test results, while not invalid per say, aren’t really indicative enough. A surfactant increases the thermal transfer rate of water. You may see this as a reduction in coolant temperature, but measuring same is a poor indicator. Why? Because the job is to increase the removal of heat from the engine block and more efficiently transfer it to the water. The water temperature in the engine remains controlled by the thermostat. Now since thermal transfer increases at the radiator too, if one looks at coolant temperature exiting the radiator it will have dropped as a result of the radiator efficiency increase. All well and good, and that part of the test is valid. If you get a different temperature leaving the engine your test is bad, the thermostat won’t allow that. Ergo that part of the test is not only flawed, (if it captured any data), it captured the wrong data too. There are only two test points that matter: Coolant temperature at the radiator exit, and cylinder head block temperature. If you see a lower (and you will) value at rad exit you’ve confirmed increased thermal transfer at the radiator. If you see a lower CHT temperature (of the head, not the water), you’ve confirmed you are transferring more heat from the head into the water. This “should” bring the thermostat open more and water flow will increase to match. Water temperature exiting the block should remain unchanged!! but block temperature will go down, as should oil temperature. In turn one can run more timing or less octane as a lower CHT results in less knock. Yes, higher pressure increases cooling efficiency. The boiling point of water goes up, and this allows a higher coolant temperature. And while that’s true of radiator efficiency it reduces thermal transfer rate in the engine, so… The greater the difference between coolant media (lets say water) and the ambient temperature (lets say of air) the greater the thermal transfer rate. Nor does it matter unless you exceed the boiling point of water+coolant. Thus in practice it has little value to anything we’re doing.
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